Mosquito Nets and Rooster Alarm Clocks - or in other words, We are in Sao Tome!

Well, we are in São Tomé and it is HOT! We arrived on Friday morning (March 19^th) and were in a hotel for the first day and night. During that day, we met up with one of our contacts here on the island, Sabina. She showed us a few apartments from the outside and then one (hers) on the inside. It is totally tiny! I have never seen anything so little, but it is cheaper than a hotel.So, for the time being, probably a week or two, we are going to be staying in an apartment complex across the street from the UN and the Nigerian Embassy. The city is small, so everything is (conceivably) within walking distance, but with the sun and heat, some walks are just too far. However, Jared’s archive and national library are very close, as so are 2 markets (not outdoor, but little grocery stores), a couple of snack shops, and the Hotel Mirimar. The Hotel Mirimar is a resort right on the sea. It’s lobby, bar and restaurant are open to the public though, and there is wireless internet in them. So, the lobby is sort of a hang-out for visitors and non-São Tomeans. You can also buy 30 day pool passes there for a reasonable price, but Jared and I are not sure if we will be staying in this apartment and are waiting until we are settled to get pool passes. You would think that since we are right on the ocean that we could just swim at a beach, but the beaches here are very rocky and the most of the areas of smooth beach have a terrible undertoe and are unsafe for swimming. We did see several people at one spot today, though, so that is cool! Here are a few pictures of the tiny place we are in now…they do not really show the scale of how tiny it really is, but maybe you can guess.

The kitchen is directly inside the door and the bathroom is where I am standing to get the picture of the kitchen. Yes, that is the shower in front of the toilet; and let’s just say that if I were anymore bigger, that shower would be impossible! (And yes, everything in the bathroom gets a bit wet!) The bed has a wardrobe at the foot of it with some shelves next to it and a TV on top. We do have electricity, but there are frequent power cuts and it is difficult to cook on the one electric coil at night because of them. However, the place is so small that in between the power cuts, the room doesn’t loose ALL of the AC. Jared and I only woke up once last night covered in sweat and praying the power would come back on. (which it did) The power is cut for like 10 to 20 minutes at a time and last night it happened about 4 times from 8 till 11 pm, and this morning about 3 times from 7 till 10 am. It will take some getting used to, but its not too bad yet.

On Monday we met Adam, the director of ADRA, the non-profit that I will be working for, and discussed what I will be doing as well as life here on the island. His wife, Kristie was very nice. She took us around the town, showing us where to go if we need a malaria test, what clinic is best if there is an emergency, and a good place to buy local fruit that is away from the confusion of the huge out door market. Adam was very nice as well and I hope that he, his wife and their children become our friends. There is an intern from Michigan working at ARDA as well. His name is Camden, he is 20 and seems cool too. It was nice to speak English for a while with all of them!

Besides all of this, Jared and I are getting set up here fairly quickly. With a contact of Adam’s at the Ministry of Finance, Jared and I received a tax ID number and were able to set up a bank account at EcoBank, which is in Ghana and several other African countries as well. Wiring money transfers online is a bit tricky with the very slow internet connection on the island, but it should work out fine!

Love and miss you all,

Jared and Michelle

Archives

Arquivo Historico Ultramarino

Arquivo Historico Diplomatico

Torre de Tombo National Archive

Biblioteca Nacional

So after a slew of postings describing our excellent adventures in Portugal, we thought it was time that I posted images of the archives where I did my work - just in case the Fulbright commission is checking up on us!! Anyway, I spent a lot of my time at these places often leaving Michelle at dawn just to be the first in line to get in and see the documents. Alright, not really. But, I did spend a lot of time at the Biblioteca Nacional, where the lady who runs the microfilm room was particularly nice to me, the Arquivo Historico Ultramarino, the Torre de Tombo national archive, and less time at the Arquivo Historico Diplomatico. All of the people at these places were very nice to me. I couldn't take pictures of any of these places from the inside but most of them have pictures on-line in case you want to view an archive. Basically there are tables where you sit and wait after making a request for a box (caixa) or a book (livro). Then a very nice person brings you the document and you take notes, make copies, or turn it back in. At the end of the day you hope that you've taken clear enough notes that you can actually refer to them in the papers that you plan on publishing later. This is my work. Fortunately, the archives in Lisbon are all a bit old and therefore quite charming, although also cold during the winter because they don't have heating like most buildings here!!

Trips Around Portugal - Sintra and Evora

The weather has finally changed for the better and Lisbon could not be prettier! The sun is shining, its warm enough to wear pants and t-shirts, and everything is blooming! I am so glad for the opportunity to see Lisbon in the spring, even if it is for a week! The winter here was the worst in recent history as far as rain, wind and temperature, but we survived it and love this change in weather all the more! Since it has been so beautiful, we have finally taken the trips we always meant to! So, in the last week, we went to Sintra and Evora, Portugal.

Sintra is a little northwest of Lisbon, about a 40 minute, above ground, metro ride. It is the home of one of the old vacation palaces and gardens, a castle that was built by the Moors, and the covenant of the Capuchins. Jared and I only had one day and since he had been to everything on his last trip 2 years ago, he suggested the palace and the gardens, and I am so glad he did! It was amazing! All our pictures are from the outside of the palace and the grounds because we were not allowed to take pictures inside. But inside was gorgeous! The funniest thing was that the “billiards room” or “ball room” (depending on which King was using it at the time) was right next to the King’s chambers and way on the other side of the palace from the Queen’s chambers! The kitchen was my favorite part! It was enormous! There was a room in the back that had 3 brick ovens, there were 2 huge stoves, and the whole place was decked out in all the old tins, moldings, pots, pans, knives, and bowls! I loved it! The gardens around the palace were beautiful! There were so many paths to choose from and a person could get wander around for a day and not see the same path twice! We choose the path that went by a bridge, a water wheel, a small chapel and the lakes. (Which were actually ponds with miniature castles for ducks!) All the paths were covered in moss and the trees were huge with random boulders everywhere! It was so much fun to just walk around with Jared. I loved it! The city of Sintra, down the mountain from the palace, castle, and covenant, is a cute little town! We took lots of pictures there too because the views, buildings, and streets were so adorable! Here are all our Sintra picture. This is definitely one of my favorite places that I have been too in my life! I loved it and we had a fabulous day there!

Evora is a town in the southern half of the interior of Portugal. It was an hour and a half bus ride there, but the bus was one of those fancy, comfortable buses and the ride was smooth and beautiful. We were able to see the countryside of Portugal with its rolling hills, neon green grasses, sheep, trees, and winery fields. We drove by the largest cork forest in the world on the way to Evora, so that was cool too. You may not know this, but Portugal is the largest cork supplier in the world. Anyway, the reason we wanted to go to Evora is because a group of monks that Jared studies were from there. The Loyos were the first missionaries in Congo and the leader of Congo, Alfonso, specifically chose them as the ones to be the first, but no one is sure why. Jared wanted to get a look at their church and old stomping grounds just for his own interest. But besides this, Evora is a pretty amazing town. It’s old wall is in perfect condition and surrounds the entire historic center of the city to this day, complete with guard towers! Also, Evora is home to the oldest Roman Temple on the Iberian Peninsula, the Temple of Diana. It dates back to the 2^nd century and was magnificent to see! I mean, I have never seen anything like it! I took a ton of pictures of it! They are with the Evora photos, here. Evora also is home to “The Chapel of the Bones”. Apparently there are several 13^th century chapels that were decorated in the bones of the dead, but not to the degree of this one. It was totally morbid, and at the same time, completely intriguing. The signs said that the chapel was a place of prayer and meditation on death and the transitive nature of life. I just thought of the Lord of the Rings, Return of the King when Aragon has to go to the mountain to get the dead army to fight for him. All the skulls and all the bones…anyway, there are lots of pictures of that too. Like Sintra, Evora was simply charming; every turn we took presented us with another beautiful cathedral, building, alleyway, house, or statue. I loved it there and advise everyone who goes to Portugal to take a day and visit this cute little city. (Oh, and Jared did get to see the cathedral of the Loyos, so the day was a complete success!)

Concerts - Fado and the Cranberries

Jared and I have been on the go, trying to do as much as we can before we leave! I have so much to fill you in on. First of all, lets talk music! Everyone knows that music is totally important to both me and Jared – he has played bass since he was a kid, and I have sang since I came out of the womb – so it is only fitting that we went to some concerts while in Lisbon.

Fado. Fado is a type of music that originated in Lisbon, specifically, around the turn of the century – so, late 1800s. It was started in low-income areas, with sailors and prostitutes mainly. The music was rich in “saudade” which has no English translation, but it is close to “a type of sadness or longing”, and relied heavily on the Portuguese guitar. Fado is a beautiful music that takes you on a journey. The guitar as well as the voice makes your heart swell and break as easily as blinking! I fell in love with it when I went to the Museum of Fado and spent the day in Alfalma, the area of Lisbon where it all started. Singers would perform in a café late at night. There would be no stage, no lighting, and no official performance – so to speak; just a crowded, smoky café with a guitar player at one table and a singer standing amongst the tables.

There is a theater in town called “Fado in Chiado” which is mainly for tourist who want to experience Fado, but do not know where to go for authentic settings. Chiado is one of the tourist areas in Lisbon and is right in the middle of town. So, Jared and I went. First, let me say, it was awesome!!! When we turned in our ticket, I was given a red rose and Jared was given a magnet of a Portuguese guitar and both totally made our night! As we sat in out seats, fog machines were pumping out smoke to make it seem like a smoky café and the lighting was very dim. There were only 4 performers, 2 guitar players and 2 singers, but it was a fabulous performance! The most famous Fado singer was Amalia, and she is considered the voice of Portugal! (And of course we bought her best hits CD!)

The other concert Jared and I went to was the Cranberries! I think it is totally fitting that we got to see them on this trip because I cannot talk about my life without hearing the Cranberries in the background! They are the soundtrack to my middle school, high school and crazy-just-after-high school days! I saw the lead singer, Deloris OReirdan at the Gravity Lounge in C’ville 2 years ago, and I cannot take a road trip without singing my heart out to at least one of their CDs! They are the only band that I own all of their CDs! I love them. It was so awesome that I could see them on this trip – its like, a sign, you know?! Like, verification that we are doing what we are supposed to do and that we are on the right path! Or, maybe we were just really lucky – who knows! Anyway, they played at the coolest venue. An old bull-fighting ring! It was awesome! They were amazing! Deloris sounded great and her man was shredding on his guitar like no other! The audience was great too! Everyone was singing along and dancing! It was super fun!

Yay for music in Portugal!

Mystery Necklace

All right, who sent me this necklace? About 3 weeks ago, a package arrived at our flat. It was addressed to me, had no return address, and the postage was from the UK and paid for in pounds. I only know 2 people in the UK right now and they did not send it to me. I posted it on Facebook and no one came forward. I have asked other people, but so far nothing. WHO SENT THIS TO ME? I would love to say thank you. The map of the old Spanish and Portuguese provinces is cute. So, whoever you may be, thank you from the bottom of my heart and please step forward!

Love,

Michelle

Sending Things Home

Since our time in Portugal was during the winter and because Sao Tome is on the Equator, Jared and I had to pack for 2 completely different climates. But now that our time in Portugal is coming to an end, we are in the process of shipping our heavy, winter clothes (and all the stuff we bought/acquired) back to Virginia. We assumed we had several options for shipping, like in the US, however, this was not the case. Last month I sent my sister in Michigan a purse. The box I sent was fairly small and the purse clearly did not weigh that much. At the post office, it was around 11 Euros for shipping. Well, I decided to try out other places, so they other day, I took a similar sized box, stuffed with a similar weighing purse for my Mom in Indiana to Fed Ex way the hell out on the North side of Lisbon. I must have sat on the bus for 45 minutes. Anyway, the Fed Ex turned out to be an express only and I was quoted at 90 Euros. Well screw that! Jared and I (obviously) have chosen to go with the post office for our shipping needs! Now, my days are filled with dumpster diving for clean, usable boxes (because Fed Ex, UPS, and other places do not sell boxes) and filling them with sweaters, coats, scarves and the like.

Ships & Our Lady of Fatima

Well, its already March which means we have 2 weeks left in Portugal! Jared and I have been traveling around Lisbon and Portugal doing all the things we can that are left on our list. In the last 2 weeks, we have gone to Oriente (an area of Lisbon where the 1998 World Expo was held) and visited the Oceanario, walked the river-walk, and rode the Sky Shuttle, we visited the Museu do Oriente, which is dedicated to the Portuguese influence in Asia, the Mariner Museum, which is honestly one of our favorite museums ever, as well as visited Fatima, a small city northwest of Lisbon.

If there is one Museum to define the history of Portugal, it would have to be the Mariner Museum. The Portuguese were the first Europeans allowed in Japan, they were a huge part of the African slave trade, and they were the first to "discover" India and the Americas, so this museum, as you can imagine, was AWESOME!! Jared loved it because there was a lot concerning what he studies, but it was also cool to me because of all the replica ships, maps, paintings, and such. Not to mention the cargo hold that had tons of boats to see and touch, like the Royal Barge used in the 17th century for the King and Queen of Portugal. To see lots of pictures of this museum, click here.

Fatima is the place of holy apparitions of Mary to three children, in 1917. Since then, the sight has become a place of prayer and pilgrimage for many believers around the world. If you google Fatima, lots of sights come up with the story of the apparitions.To see some of our pictures, click here. The reason I wanted to go to Fatima was because of a book I read when I was younger called “The Unexplained”. It was a book about visions and sightings and ghost stories from around the world – kind of cheesy – but in it was Fatima. I always remembered the story and the place because it involved children and 3 secrets that they were not allowed to talk about until the Vatican released them. As an avid talker, I thought this was insane! If I saw a vision and it gave me a message, there is no way I could be silent about it!! Anyway, when Jared received the Fulbright, one of the first things I said was that I wanted to visit Fatima, and I did!

These last 2 weeks are going to be crazy because we want to leave with no regrets. Our plans include traveling to Cascais, Evora and Sintra (all cities in Portugal), watching at least one show in a theater here (I’m hoping for the Wizard of Oz which is playing this month), and listening to some live Fado (a Portuguese type of music that is soulful and moving). I have no doubt that these and more will be done by March 18^th! Wish us luck!

Love,

Michelle